Property Owner Tree Care
Dead and dying trees with Dutch elm disease or oak wilt are removed under the city’s Tree Disease Management program. Storm-damaged boulevard trees are trimmed or removed depending on the damage severity. Broken branches are removed to prevent injuries or damage to property. Stumps of removed trees are ground and the site is restored and seeded. No charge is made to the abutting property owner for these services.
Guide for Watering Newly Planted Boulevard Trees
Watering newly planted trees is very important in determining whether a new tree will live or die. Please use this guide when determining the amount of water and the intervals of watering for your newly planted trees. A sprinkler system will not give your new tree the proper water it needs for good root growth. Do not expect your normal watering practices for established trees to be adequate for newly planted trees. If the new tree is located in the lawn area, do not rely on lawn irrigation to provide enough water. Keep in mind that the root ball can dry out within a day or two in hot weather.
Also, keep in mind that lawn irrigation can over water your trees, which will kill your tree. It is easier to add water than remove it. Special attention should be given to trees for at least three years until they become established and develop adequate root systems out into the surrounding soil.
Simple Rules to Follow
- Generally, young trees need watering during any week there is less than an inch of rain until a hard freeze occurs. Use a rain gauge to measure rainfall.
- Young trees need at least 8 to 10 gallons of water a week.
- It is easier to add water than remove it, so do not over water.
- It is best to water slowly and deeply.
- Water early in the day.
How to Wrap Trees for Winter
With the bitter cold of the winter season, many young or flimsy trees may be vulnerable to the low temperatures, icy winds, and falling snow. According to The Weather Channel, January is one of the coldest months of the year with Temperatures falling to an average low of 29 degrees.
Because these conditions can often cause serious damage to younger or smaller trees, experts suggest properly wrapping their trunks for winter to avoid exposure, in addition to preventing the invasion of small rodents and other animals. Before winter reaches its lowest temperatures, follow these four steps and wrap your trees so they survive the winter weather:
- When to wrap: Researchers at the University of Minnesota recommend wrapping your trees after the first hard freeze of the year, which usually occurs from late October to the end of November. Homeowners should wrap trunks to prevent "sun scald," which is a term used to describe the splitting of the bark due to due exposure to higher temperatures immediately followed by freezing temperatures during the winter.
- What to wrap with: To wrap your tree, you will want to collect commercial tree wrap made from corrugated paper or an alternative composition material. Avoid using materials like burlap or black plastic, since these materials aren’t as effective. Since most commercial wrap is two-sided, you should choose to have the white side facing outward to reflect excess heat from the tree. Start wrapping at the bottom of the trunk and aim for as close to the ground as possible.
- How to wrap: Make sure to overlap your wrapping material as you make your way up the trunk. You should wrap until you hit the first structural branch at the top of the trunk. It would also be beneficial to wrap around small branches on the tree to protect these more vulnerable portions from exposure. Once you have completely finished wrapping, secure the ends of the wrap with tape, and avoid using abrasive securing materials such as garden twist ties, wire or rope.
- Removal tips: Remove the tree wrap as soon as the ground warms up.